Water
is essential to all living organisms and most fish will perish within an
hour without water. The aquarium is a closed system. Fish eat and excrete in
the aquarium, it is logical that the water condition can only deteriorate
with time regardless of the efficiency of the filter system. Essential
elements in the water will also be depleted with time. Personally I do
not believe in the advance filtration system that can do without water
changes.
When
to change?
Frequent
and small are better than large but in-frequent water
changes. How frequent would depends a few factors
:
Size
of Tank.
The bigger the tank the longer the frequency.
Bio-load.
The size and number of fish in an aquarium will affect the bio-load.
The heavier the bio-load, more frequent water changes would be
required.
Filtration
System. A better filter
system would help in reducing the frequency of water changes (but not
eliminate the need).
Notwithstanding,
the ideal frequency is weekly to monthly. I change about 25% of my tank
water every week.
How
much to change?
This
is similarly affected by the factors in estimating the required frequency of
water changes. A 10% to 50% guide can be consider normal. Bigger tanks
can tolerate bigger water changes (more capacity) while smaller ones has
less margin of error. The best indicators are the behavior of your fish
after a water change. Signs of shaking, erratic ducting,
grasping for air are indications that the water condition has deviated too
much (i.e. too much water changes).
How
to do water changes?
When
considering the set-up of an aquarium, it would be best to place it near to
a water point/tap as well as a floor trap to facilitate water changes.
Ideally, if the intake and outlet can be built as part of the aquarium, it
would definitely save time and effort in aquarium maintenance.
1.
Prepare a hose of adequate size (to water tap and floor trap) for siphoning
and replacing the water. I normally use 2 hoses as I need to change
water for 3 tanks every week.
2.
To achieve a siphoning effect, direct one end of the hose into the floor
trap and put the other in the aquarium. You can use the aquarium filter
outlet to fill the hose for the siphoning effect. Alternatively, the siphon
can be achieved with a siphon tube that can be bought at any aquarium
supplier. Basically is a short length of hose with a 1-way valve (or control
tape) to be connected to the main hose. The valve is normally located below
the aquarium water level and remain shut while the top portion of the hose
is being filled. Then the valve is open to allow water to drain from
the hose to create the required siphon effect.
3.
Drain the aquarium (10-50%), and then refill it with
clean water. Most tank-bred fish can withstand direct
water changes but for wild caught and more
sensitive fish, it would be necessary to store clean
water overnight (with aeration) before putting them into
the aquarium. Add anti-chlorine as required if the local
water contains too much chlorine.
4.
The position of the aquarium filter intake and outlet
can also facilitate water changes. I use my filter
outlet as a source to achieve the siphoning effect and
the filter intake is well below the 75% water level so
that I do not have to turn-off the filter even during
water changes.
5.
Prepare necessary rags as water changes will definitely
lead to spills on the floor that can be a hazard.
